Guess who got a digicam for an early Christmas present
Heres some pics from Saturday's swell that hit the California coast. This is the same swell that brought 25-40 foot waves to Oahu. Better spots were seeing solid 8-10+ feet in my neighborhood.
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Working "hard," or the perception of working hard, doesn't really mean anything. Sweating, vomiting, and breathing hard could be a good workout or a tropical disease kicking in.-Dan John
Yeah the waves have been great the past couple of days but the paddle out has been a pain. I surf at El Porto in Manhattan Beach(a beachbreak). Unfortunatly the waves have been closing out alot. Overall some nice overhead sets. I wished I had more time to travel to some places that were holding the size.
Ventura looked pretty good. I have surfed the harbor a couple of times in the past but use to go up to Rincon more often(had some friends who went to UCSB). I ocassionaly surf county line or topanga which is only about 30-45 minutes from my house.
Great pics and good to see another surfer on the board.
aaah, went out for a 3 hour surf today. A bit smaller but still some fun workable peaks.
jwj, couple of those shots were from the harbor. You should head up here sometime - let me know.
Today we surfed a fun little beachbreak near Solimar, just a couple miles from Rincon. The crowds at Rincon & C Street are outta control on the weekends. Much prefer fewer people out even if the waves are a bit smaller.
less people= more waves= great workout. Constant paddling out through sets is like no gym workout I've tried. Either you paddle your ass off and get outside or you get a beating
John Davies, who writes at T-mag, hosts surf workouts down in LA and mentioned to me that he gets buff gym rats out there and they are usually done after about 15 minutes of paddling.
__________________
Working "hard," or the perception of working hard, doesn't really mean anything. Sweating, vomiting, and breathing hard could be a good workout or a tropical disease kicking in.-Dan John
Josh- you kidding? Where are you in Australia? You've got some of the best breaks in the world, not to mention your closer to Bali, Maldives, Tahiti etc...
Capp, where do you bodyboard in LR? Have y'all been keeping some secret spots?
JP, just think of the crosstraining we could do if you took the fitness retreat on the road!
__________________
Working "hard," or the perception of working hard, doesn't really mean anything. Sweating, vomiting, and breathing hard could be a good workout or a tropical disease kicking in.-Dan John
"JP, just think of the crosstraining we could do if you took the fitness retreat on the road!"
Yeah that makes alot of sense I second that
kuri,
I missed the first pic the first time I saw the post. Waves looked good much better then el porto.I definetly would appreciate a little local knowledge. I will try to head up their in January. I will check the forecast then and try to schedule a good day. I am not sure if you have seen this links:
My two strongest parts of my body are my back and triceps (two parts used most in surfing).
Paddling out at a closing out beach break with a full wetsuit is one of the hardest workouts I can think of. Maybe when Davies is in LA again we should try to get involved. I know he is usually down San Diego way. I will keep an eye out for something.
Anytime it looks good and you wanna head up let me know. PM me & I can give you the info.
I assume you ride a shortboard. I only have a longboard now but am looking at picking up a fish, maybe a thruster. Fish's look like too much fun.
Davies site, renegadetraining should have info on seminars. Haven't checked it lately. Who knows, he said he's gonna try to make it up north here too.
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Working "hard," or the perception of working hard, doesn't really mean anything. Sweating, vomiting, and breathing hard could be a good workout or a tropical disease kicking in.-Dan John
I have ridden shortboards most of my life. I have now switched to hybrids(I am getting a little older(just 31) and like the paddling power I get with hybrids. I miss the ease of duckdiving I use to have with shortboards and some of manuverability.I had a 6 9" board that was my big day surfboard but got split last February(pulled into a closeout and came up to see 1/2 the board barely hanging on) and I have not had the money to replace it.
It usually only takes a little over an hour to get up to Ventura(depending on the traffic). It looks like it is going to be a good winter(fingers crossed).
Look foward to see more pics of waves to pump me up.
What's the water temp there? It's about 50 F here in Charleston, SC. Of course, the only time we get to surf around here is when we have a TS or hurricane offshore.
Water temp is about 58-59. A 2/3 mill wettie and your fine.
I've been to Nag's Head up in NC, hear they get some nice waves there.
jwj, how do you like the hybrids?
I've got a 9'3" Takayama pintail that works better as the surf gets bigger. Great carving board. Looking for a bit bigger board so I can hang out on the nose more (6'1" 205lbs) in smaller surf, but also want a shortboard. So many boards so little money.
Have any of you seen vid of the Eddie Aikau at Waimea last week? Inspiring
and of course Laird and the boyz were out at Jaws in 50 foot killers: Jaws vid
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Working "hard," or the perception of working hard, doesn't really mean anything. Sweating, vomiting, and breathing hard could be a good workout or a tropical disease kicking in.-Dan John
Thanks for the links. I had not seen those yet. I saw Bruce Irons ride but that is all. I thought Waimea was huge and crazy untill I saw Jaws. Jaws is just freakin crazy. The craziest thing was watching the guys go left at Jaws I had not seen much footage of that.
I had my last day of finals today and by the time I made it to the beach it was already blown out. I leave for Texas tomorrow afternoon I am going to check it out in the morning but I see that winds could be a problem tomorrow too. Oh well it gives my shoulders a rest and helps my bulking program.
Got two words for ya' - Laird Hamilton. King of the big waves. Now he's getting all sorts of attention with these ad spots. Which just goes to show that you can be an awesome big wave rider, but you'll only get the attention after you bag Gabby Reece.
K- can you imagine how their kids are gonna turn out? They'll have to redefine the term "genetically gifted".
If you guys haven't seen the recent film Riding Giants - see it. Comes out on DVD in Jan.
Beautiful job documenting the history of big wave riding including great section on Laird.
Last weekend I was out for a surf and the guy paddling next to me said he had worked on the film. Never know whos gonna be out in the lineup here. Couple months ago I was out for a relaxing surf and noticed the guy next to me looked suspiciously like Tom Curren. The legend. 3 time world champ.
Wasn't sure until he took off on a wave and in about 1/2 a second I KNEW it was him. It was something like having MJ stroll out on your playground court and start shooting around.
Jwj, hate to rub it in man but up here in Ventura its going to be overhead on the 24th-25th. No worries though, it'll be good when you get back.
__________________
Working "hard," or the perception of working hard, doesn't really mean anything. Sweating, vomiting, and breathing hard could be a good workout or a tropical disease kicking in.-Dan John
Classic surf pose [img]smile.gif[/img] 
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