Maybe the most often asked question in the history of this sport is "how can I strengthen my fingers?" A common observation of many climbers is that while finger/forearm endurance improves during the course of a season, maximum grip strength--your ability to hang on tiny holds, shallow pockets, slopers and pinches--does not. Sadly enough, it is usually gains in max finger strength, along with technique and the head games, which open up the next level of difficulty. Tony Yaniro points out the importance of training maximum strength over endurance with his comment "if you cannot pull a single hard move, you have nothing to endure." And Tony should know, he's been climbing 5.13 longer than anyone else on this planet!
EH on his home wall and in Buoux, France.
OK, so what is the best exercise for training maximum finger strength? The leading contenders are high-intensity bouldering, fingerboard training, heavy-weight finger rolls and campus training. Certainly each of these methods are somewhat effective given the right program, however, it's my opinion that they all fall short of being the best. On this website, I'll introduce you to a new and somewhat misunderstood method of finger strength training I develop--it's the HIT Workout!
"If you cannot pull a single hard move, you have nothing to endure!"
Photogs: Bruce Stick and Michael McGill, respectively.
Follow the links below to read a primer on my theory of finger training and the HIT Workout program. You will also learn about my specially designed HIT Strips (manufactured by NICROS, Inc. 1-800-699-1975) which serve as the ideal platform for this new type of training; though, you can also perform HIT workouts on any steep wall equipped with a range of finger-friendly pockets, edges, slopers and pinches. .
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Unsolicited Feedback
"If you cannot pull a single hard move, you have nothing to endure!" on HIT Workouts . . .
"From my first workout on the HIT Strips, I was convinced that they were an excellent finger training tool." -- Chris
"I've been on the HIT Strips for two training cycles now and I've doubled my finger strength!" --Dick
"I've logging great gains in strength already and found a new enthusiasm for training. Thanks for your new training ideas." -- Paul
"I'm impressed with your HIT concept, your quality advice and your willingness to debunk myths about what makes climbers stronger. After completing just the first training cycle, I climb with more poise and confidence." --Alistair 
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