Quote:
Originally Posted by wannabe
I grew up in New York. I didn't understand surfing. I moved to California and didn't understand surfing. I tried boogie boarding, (i think it's called) and I got one good ride. What a rush! I cannot surf, but now recognize the effort and balance it takes. I applaud any surfers, and envy them. I'm terrified of the ocean. Jelly fish and hypodermic needles, sends shivers down my spine. I loved watching surfers from the Huntington Beach Pier with a Ruby Burger in my hand. Kudos for you!
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Try a paipo, it's a shortboard with Hawai'ian roots. You ride it like a bodyboard but it's faster. Much faster. Like OMFG, wow.
Surfing is a lot of fun. I was in a contest this past weekend, we all had a good time (it was a fund raiser for March of Dimes).
It's more of a zen thing too. Take this past Sunday. The 5 of us on my team (all old pals) paddled out into the mist for some waist high glass with a few chest high sets. We were way down the beach, no one was near us. I was on my old skool 9'8" longboard, one of the other guys was on his 6'8", another was on a new skool 9'4" longboard, one guy was on a paipo and another was on a 9'2" longboard. Everyone caught waves. I spent most of my time trying to nose ride (got a few in) and working on my retro tricks. We all left with huge grins.
A crappy day in the water beats the heck out of a good day at work.